The trademark dish of the Hasselbacken hotel in Sweden, these Swedish-style roast potatoes, thinly sliced widthways but held together at the base, fan out like an accordion when they are baked. They look hugely impressive, and manage also to combine just about everything that makes potatoes so addictive: the edges are as crisp as any french fry, while underneath is a creamy, mashed potato-like centre. The potatoes will require some attention during the initial frying, so they open properly, but stick with it: they look beautiful and are packed with flavour. Serves four.
1kg small charlotte or new potatoes, skin on (about 12 potatoes)
100g unsalted butter
Salt and black pepper
200ml double cream
150ml chicken stock
3 garlic cloves, crushed
3 anchovies, finely chopped
2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon chopped rosemary
30g finely grated parmesan
10g sprigs of thyme
Use a small serrated knife to cut widthways incisions across each potato about 0.5cm apart and going three-quarters of the way through the potato, so it stays in one piece.
Put the butter in a large, ovenproof saute pan and place on a medium-high heat. Once it starts to foam, add the potatoes cut side up and half a teaspoon of salt. Fry gently for 15 minutes, basting throughout, until the potatoes are nearly cooked and golden-brown all over. You want the incisions in the potatoes to open up, so use a small knife to help prise them apart. Remove the potatoes and wipe clean the pan.
Heat the oven to 200C/390F/gas mark 6. Return the potatoes to the pan cut side up, and add the cream, stock, garlic, anchovies, lemon zest, rosemary, an eighth of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes, basting the potatoes as they cook. Take the pan off the heat. sprinkle over the parmesan and thyme, then roast for 10-15 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked through, golden-brown all over and the cream is bubbling. Serve at once.
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